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Born:

1987, Frankenjura, Bavaria, Germany

Biggest achievement:

First ascent of Il Gusto Della Liberta (8c+), Ulassai, Sardinia / Free ascent of El Capitan / North Pillar Summit of Fitz Roy, Patagonia

DMM athlete since:

2017

Thomas Dauser is a German climber and astrophysicist from the Frankenjura, and one of the most quietly remarkable people in the sport. His climbing CV lists over 100 sport routes between 8a and 9a, boulders up to 8B, E6 British trad onsights, 8a multipitch rock routes, Yosemite big walls and a broad array of mountaineering and alpine routes. He also holds a PhD in astrophysics and works as a full-time scientist at the Remeis Observatory in Bamberg, conducting cutting-edge research into black holes. Raised in the southern Frankenjura and inspired from an early age by the legendary Wolfgang GĂĽllich, Thomas has spent over five years quietly working one of the most iconic routes in climbing history, Action Directe (9a), falling three times on the very last move. That obsession says everything about him: methodical, persistent and entirely uninterested in shortcuts. When he is not on the rock or staring into deep space, he is working towards his Habilitation, one of the highest academic qualifications in the German system.

"You can't control the outcome in every single detail, but with a dedicated approach, big goals can be achieved."

Get to know Thomas

When did you start climbing?

I started climbing as a child at around 8 years old.

Who are your role models, both within and outside the climbing community?

Wolfgang GĂĽllich. A classic Frankenjura legend who not only pushed sport climbing harder than anyone before him, but also climbed the most inspiring alpine routes like Eternal Flame on the Nameless Tower.

Which route keeps calling you back?

For more than five years I have been trying Action Directe. I have fallen three times on the last move, including last autumn, and I will always come back until it is finally done.

Have you ticked anything off your bucket list?

Climbing on the magnificent Patagonian granite of Fitz Roy and free climbing El Cap.

How would you describe your climbing style and your anti-style?

I am definitely more of an endurance, vertical climber on crimps. After all the years in the Frankenjura I still struggle with steep climbing. I like the challenge of the anti-style, but it only improves slowly.

How do you manage the mental pressure of a long-term project?

I try to give it everything every time I try, and as long as I tried hard I am happy with my project. Some day it will work. The bigger mental challenges are actually on the big walls. Trying to free climb El Cap you often only have one chance to do it right. I sort of like that pressure. The knowledge that this is a once in a lifetime chance keeps me focused and trying as hard as possible.

What has climbing taught you?

To be persistent and not give up. You can't control the outcome in every single detail, but with a dedicated approach, big goals can be achieved.

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