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Born:

1980, Eibar, Basque Country, Spain

Biggest achievement:

Lead Climbing World Champion (2009) / Lead World Cup winner (2006 and 2007) / World's first 8c+ onsight, Bizi Euskaraz (2007) / The trilogy: Biographie, La Rambla and Action Directe

DMM athlete since:

2021

Patxi Usobiaga is a Basque climber, World Champion and one of the most influential figures in sport climbing over the past three decades. Born in Eibar in the Basque Country, he started climbing at the age of 10 and went on to become the first climber in history to onsight an 8c+ route, climbing Bizi Euskaraz at Etxauri in 2007. He earned 25 World Cup medals on the adult lead circuit, winning the Lead World Cup in 2006 and 2007, the European Championship in 2008 and the Lead World Championship in 2009. His outdoor achievements are equally remarkable, with over 20 routes graded 9a or harder, including what he calls the most valuable trilogy in climbing: Biographie (9a+), La Rambla (9a+) and Action Directe (9a). A serious car accident in 2010 forced him into retirement, but Patxi rebuilt himself completely, returning to climb at the same grades a decade later. Now based in Alt Urgell in Catalonia, he coaches elite athletes including Adam Ondra and Chris Sharma through his PUC Series Training system, develops new routes across the region and continues to push his own climbing, driven by the belief that patience is a strength and that falling is the only path to evolution.

"Patience is a strength. Ego is the worst protection. And falling is not failing, but the only path to evolution."

Get to know Patxi

When did you start climbing?

I started at the age of 10 in December 1990. My family had a mountaineering tradition and by 9 or 10 I was already climbing Pyrenean three-thousanders with my parents. The direct connection with rock climbing came that December, spending Saturdays at Atxarte with my father.

What do you consider your most significant climbing achievement to date?

Iñi Ameriketan (9a), Pietra Murata (8b+ onsight, my first 8b+ onsight) and Bizi Euskaraz (8c+), my first and the world's first 8c+ onsight.

How would you describe your climbing style and your anti-style?

Vertical and slightly overhanging, with hard moves on small holds and good rests between sections. Crimps every time.

How do you manage the mental pressure of a long-term project?

I try to focus on long-term projects by also having short and medium-term projects, in order to make the right approach without burning out.

What is the most valuable piece of climbing advice you have received?

Enjoy climbing and climb as high as you can. More than that is impossible.

What has climbing taught you?

That patience is a strength. That ego is the worst protection. And that falling is not failing, but the only path to evolution.

Which crag or mountain is your favourite and which do you consider the most beautiful in the world?

Alt Urgell, where I live, climb and equip every day. It is the most incredible place I know.

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