Born:

1959, Preston, Lancashire, England

Biggest achievement:

Mont Blanc at the age of 16 and climbing E8 at the tender age of 59!

DMM athlete since:

1986

Mick Lovatt is one of Britain's most enduring and respected climbers, with a career stretching back to 1974 and showing absolutely no signs of slowing down. Originally from Preston, Lancashire, he started climbing as a schoolboy and quickly progressed from local quarries to the Lakes, the Alps and beyond. A former international competition climber and prolific new router, Mick has built a remarkable legacy across sport, trad, bouldering and mountaineering over more than five decades. He is perhaps best known for his extraordinary consistency on hard sport routes, having climbed at least one route of 8a or harder every single year since 1986. Now based on the Llŷn Peninsula in North Wales, he has turned his considerable sport climbing ability to trad, adding bold E8 ascents at Craig Dorys to an already exceptional CV. As DMM's very first sponsored athlete, his connection to the brand runs as deep as his love of the sport itself.

"Never give up. You sometimes have to suffer to achieve success."

Get to know Mick

When did you start climbing?

1974, in the dark ages at the dawn of time! I started as a schoolboy and never looked back. Early highlights included climbing Mont Blanc at 16, my first new route in the Lake District at 19 and a month in Yosemite at 20. Character building experiences that set me up for a life of climbing.

What do you consider your most significant climbing achievement to date?

Probably too many to say which are the “most” significant but two that come to mind are:- an ascent of Mont Blanc at the age of 16 and climbing E8 at the tender age of 59!

Who are your role models?

My two main role models were Steve Wilcock, climber, alpinist, mentor and general all round good guy who really started me climbing properly back in ‘74.

The second was Gaston Rebuffat, French guide and alpinist who produced amazing books that I treated as my bible back in the day.

How would you describe your climbing style and your anti-style?

Having climbed for many years on Yorkshire limestone I’d describe my style as steep and crimpy, but not too steep, although I do find roof climbing satisfying particularly if it involves techy heel hooks! My anti style would be anything with slippery feet particularly on polished footholds and example would be Chulilla in Spain, some impressive routes but have been overused!

How do you manage the mental pressure of a long-term project?

I’ve always been good at visualisation, even before it became a thing. Being able to see yourself succeed on a project sometimes way in advance of the actual event is a huge motivational advantage. Before any red point attempt I will always find a quiet spot to visualise the moves and sequences. This works equally as well on the on-sight, visualising moves from the ground or on big crags through binoculars!

Which crag or mountain is your favourite and which do you consider the most beautiful in the world?

Craig Dorys on the Llŷn Peninsula of course! Followed closely by Malham Cove in the Yorkshire Dales.

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