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Born:

2000, Guildford, Surrey, England

Biggest achievement:

3-time Paraclimbing World Champion (2018, 2019, 2021), AU2 category

DMM athlete since:

TBC

Matthew Phillips is a 3-time Paraclimbing World Champion from Guildford, born with a difference in his right arm below the elbow. He came to climbing after a successful competitive swimming career, switching sports at around 13 years old in search of a new challenge. Within just two years he had made the GB Paraclimbing Team, and in 2016 took gold at his very first international competition in Italy. What followed was one of the most decorated careers in British paraclimbing, with World Championship titles in 2018, 2019 and 2021 and numerous World Cup podiums along the way. Known for his dynamic style and explosive movement, Matthew is now channelling his experience into coaching and route setting, while working towards qualifying for the Paralympics and making history as part of the first cohort of paraclimbers to compete at the games.

"The natural diversity of climbing means I can always find motivation in some corner or another. That is the beauty of our sport."

Get to know Matthew

Did you always know you were going to be a climber?

Definitely not. I did many sports growing up, from football and rugby to fencing. My main sport for years was competitive swimming, which I did from age 9 to 14. Climbing came about from a search for something new, and it was only once I joined my squad, made friends and became part of the community that I knew I was a climber for life.

What is the primary objective remaining on your bucket list?

Having recently returned to competition climbing after a break focused on coaching and route setting, my primary goal is to qualify for climbing in the Paralympics and be in the first cohort to do so.

What keeps you motivated?

The natural diversity of climbing means I can always find motivation somewhere. My coaching keeps me on my toes trying to keep up with the guys I train, and route setting keeps my mind working on cool and intricate movement. Where one motivation lessens, another always makes up the shortfall.

Which crag or mountain is your favourite and which do you consider the most beautiful in the world?

Cairngorm. My family has taken yearly trips there since I was a kid, mostly to ski, but also because it is a place I find a great deal of peace. Looking up at the plateau from Loch Morlich gives me a very special feeling that is hard to put into words.

Would you rather send a 9c+ lead route or a 9A+ boulder problem?

I am a rope climber through and through, so 9c+ lead route for me every time.

What is your preferred crag snack?

Being British and a route-setter it has to be a biscuit and my personal favourite is a rich tea.

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