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Born:

1986, San Francisco, California, USA

Biggest achievement:

Second ascent of Jumbo Love (5.15b/9b), Clark Mountain (2015) / First free ascent of Blackbeard's Tears (8c+/5.14c) / 4-time American Youth National Lead Champion

DMM athlete since:

2019

Ethan Pringle is an American rock climber from San Francisco, California, and one of the most versatile and accomplished climbers of his generation. Born in 1986, he started climbing at eight at his local Mission Cliffs gym and by thirteen had redpointed his first 5.14a, winning the American youth national lead championship four consecutive years from 1998 to 2002. His career spans elite sport climbing, bouldering, trad and big wall, with few professional climbers matching his depth across all disciplines. The pièce de résistance came in 2015 when, after working the route on and off since 2007, he made the second ascent of Jumbo Love (5.15b/9b) at Clark Mountain, California, North America's hardest sport climb. The following year he made the first free ascent of Blackbeard's Tears on the Redwood Coast, regarded at the time as one of the hardest trad climbs in the world at 8c+. A 40-day expedition to Greenland in 2013 where he onsighted uncharted 5.13 trad pitches on a 1,000-metre first ascent with Mike Libecki adds further colour to an already extraordinary career. Now based in the South Africa, Ethan and his wife Catie are building a remote coaching and retreat business, channelling decades of hard-won climbing experience into helping others find their own potential.

"Adventure keeps me motivated. Whether it's trying the moves on a hard project, exploring new areas or developing a new line, the experience must have some unknown element to keep me going."

Get to know Ethan

When did you start climbing?

1995. As soon as I tried it for the first time and knew it was an activity people did, I knew I'd be a lifer.

What do you consider your most significant climbing achievement to date?

Probably the second ascent of Jumbo Love. Eight years of work, a serious injury that derailed my first attempt, and a lot of self-doubt to overcome. When I finally sent it the experience was almost out of body.

Which route keeps calling you back?

Meltdown. I sent it clean on toprope on my third session and three seasons later I still haven't sent it on lead. Unfinished business.

How do you manage the mental pressure of a long-term project?

Usually poorly. I often have to go through a phase of stress and frustration before I can finally try without expectation. But maybe that phase is something everyone experiences and some people just don't show it.

What is the most valuable piece of climbing advice you have received?

Breathe and relax. It'll all be over soon.

What has climbing taught you?

To be more patient with myself and others, to accept setbacks and unmet expectations, and the value of human connection and community.

Which crag or mountain is your favourite and which do you consider the most beautiful in the world?

The fjords and mountains of southeast Greenland are probably the prettiest and most unique I have ever seen. Yosemite is pretty unbeatable too. And Ceuse.

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