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Born:

1986, Exeter, Devon, England

Biggest achievement:

First British woman to climb 9a, The Big Bang, Lower Pen Trwyn, North Wales (2019) / Ascent of Yma O Hyd (E10 7a) / E8 trad onsights and flashes / Former GB Junior Bouldering Champion

DMM athlete since:

2011

Emma Twyford is one of Britain's most accomplished and respected rock climbers, with a career spanning nearly three decades across trad, sport and bouldering. Born in Exeter in 1986 and raised in the Lake District, she was introduced to climbing by her father at the age of seven and never looked back. A former GB Junior Bouldering Champion and competition climber, Emma's heart has always been on the rock, where she has built an extraordinary CV of onsights and flashes up to E8 and E10 headpoint, including her ascent of Yma O Hyd (E10 7a). In September 2019 she became the first British woman to climb 9a with her ascent of The Big Bang at Lower Pen Trwyn in North Wales. Away from climbing, Emma holds a BSc in Sport Science and Coaching, works full time as a freelance route setter and co-founded Creative Climbing, running workshops to help women break into the setting industry.

“I deal with mental pressure by always making sure I count the small wins and checking in with myself to see if I'm still enjoying the process”

Get to know Emma

When did you start climbing?

I started at the age of 7 in the Lake District. At that age I knew I enjoyed it and that I wanted it to be a part of my life in some way, shape or form.

What do you consider your most significant climbing achievement to date?

Climbing The Big Bang, 9a. Becoming the first British woman to climb at that grade is something I am very proud of.

How do you manage the mental pressure of a long-term project?

I always make sure I count the small wins and check in with myself to see if I am still enjoying the process. When the enjoyment goes, it is time to step back.

What is the most valuable piece of climbing advice you have received?

Being relaxed about it makes me perform better. It means I perform when I want to.

Crimps or slopers?

Crimps.

Gates in or gates out?

Gates out.

What is one essential item you always carry in your crag bag that is not climbing gear?

Peppermint tea. 

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