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Born:

1981, St Asaph, North Wales

Biggest achievement:

Onsight of L'Or du Temps (7c+ ED, 15 pitches) on the Grand Capucin

DMM athlete since:

2004

Dougal Tavener is a Chamonix-based climber and IFMGA mountain guide who grew up in North Wales, named after a famous Scottish climber and raised in the shadow of some of Britain's most iconic mountains. His first steps on Tryfan at age six set the course for everything that followed. Now one of the most well-rounded British climbers of his generation, Dougal has onsighted up to E7 in North Wales, redpointed up to 8c and built an extensive CV across big wall, alpine and mixed climbing. His onsight of the 15-pitch route L'Or du Temps on the Grand Capucin stands as one of his proudest achievements, a route he describes as requiring him to dig deeper than almost anything else he has done. With Golden Gate on El Capitan firmly in his sights and the Nameless Tower in Pakistan the longer-term dream, Dougal runs First Light Mountain Guides in Chamonix alongside his best friend and fellow guide Danny Uhlmann, and climbs as a Montane athlete, bringing the same drive and commitment to his clients and sponsors that he brings to his own climbing.

"Climbing gives me a level of calm and focus that I don't really find anywhere else and I think I need that to handle everything else life throws in."

Get to know Dougal

When did you start climbing?

I first climbed Tryfan with my dad when I was six. Safe to say it stuck. I was named after a famous Scottish climber and grew up in North Wales, so the signs were there early. I didn’t know how deep it would go — but in hindsight it feels a bit preordained

What do you consider your most significant climbing achievement to date?

Onsighting L’Or du Temps on the Grand Capucin. I’m not sure I’ve ever had to dig quite that deep — and sharing it with my best friend Danny Uhlmann made it even more special.

Which route keeps calling you back?

There are always a few… but the big unfinished business right now is Golden Gate on El Capitan.

How do you manage the mental pressure of a long-term project?

Try to get it done before the pressure has time to build.

What is the most valuable piece of climbing advice you have received?

Learn to half-crimp. Total game changer for me.

What has climbing taught you?

Honestly, I’m not sure how I’d have navigated life without it. Climbing gives me a level of calm and focus that I don’t really find anywhere else — and I think I need that to handle everything else life throws in.

Favourite and most beautiful place you have climbed?

Right now, El Capitan. If I make it to the Nameless Tower, that might take the crown. Before Yosemite, it was the Grand Capucin.

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