Born:

1992, Shropshire, England

Biggest achievement:

Free ascents of El Niño (5.13b/c) on El Capitan and The Free Hallucinogen Wall (5.13c) on Black Canyon / Fourth ascent of The Meltdown (9a) / First ascent of Patresence (E9 7a), Nant Peris Quarry / Sport climbed up to 9a / Trad climbed up to E9

DMM athlete since:

2018

Angus Kille is a British climber, mountaineering instructor and mental training coach based in Llanberis, North Wales. Growing up in Shropshire, he found climbing at fourteen and describes it as an instant, total conversion. He learnt on the soft sandstone of Nesscliffe before developing into one of Britain's most capable all-round climbers, with notable ascents across trad, big wall and sport. His big wall CV is particularly impressive: multiple free ascents of El Capitan including El Corazón (5.13b) with Dan McManus, El Niño (5.13b/c) and The Free Hallucinogen Wall (5.13c) with his wife Hazel Findlay, as well as a fourth ascent of The Meltdown (9a) at Twll Mawr in North Wales. On trad he has put up routes including Patresence (E9 7a) at Nant Peris Quarry, a first ascent he completed in the final days before his daughter was born. Alongside his own climbing, Angus works as a coach at Strong Mind Climbing, helping other climbers develop their mental performance on the rock.

"There's always more to learn from climbing"

Get to know Angus

When did you start climbing?

Apparently I started climbing before I could walk, but I was 14 when I realised climbing was actually a thing, and then immediately became a climber. I wish I'd known sooner.

What do you consider your most significant climbing achievement to date?

Getting a triple pulley rupture on Meltdown, but not falling off. Free climbing El Cap again. And climbing El Cap the first time.

Who are your role models, both within and outside the climbing community?

I've had lots of role models on posters and in climbing films, but the biggest ones are the climbers closest to me, my climbing mates, and my wife Hazel.

How do you manage the mental pressure of a long-term project?

Focus on what I'm learning.

What is the most valuable piece of climbing advice you have received?

Breathe out.

Which crag or mountain is your favourite and which do you consider the most beautiful in the world?

El Cap is my favourite. But Lower Pen Trwyn is the most beautiful in the world.

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