Born:

1987, Hohenems, Vorarlberg, Austria

Biggest achievement:

First free ascent of The Gift (8c, 350m), Drusenfluh, Rätikon (2015) / Ground-up first ascent of Seventh Direction (8c, 220m), Drusenfluh (2018)

DMM athlete since:

2009

Alex Luger is an Austrian climber from Hohenems in Vorarlberg, born into a climbing family and shaped from an early age by the big limestone walls of the Northern Alps. A defining moment came at eleven years old, abseiling into the Verdon Gorge with his father, an experience that cemented his path in life. Since then he has become one of the most accomplished and adventurous all-round climbers in the world, equally at home on hard single-pitch sport routes and committing ground-up alpine first ascents with minimal gear. His signature achievements are concentrated in the Rätikon, where he has pushed the limits of what is possible on big mountain walls: the first free ascent of The Gift (8c, 350m) on the Drusenfluh in 2015 after two years of preparation, and the ground-up first ascent of Seventh Direction (8c, 220m) on the Drusenfluh east face in 2018 after five years of work. A Sports Science graduate who turned professional straight out of university, Alex is driven not by grades alone but by the romance and challenge of hard climbing in serious mountain terrain. He has since trained as an Existential Analyst and Psychotherapist, and now combines the two professions.

"There is always a next summer" 

Get to know Alex

When did you start climbing?

I grew up in a climbing family, from the very start. After a big experience in the Gorge du Verdon at eleven years old, I realised that climbing was what I wanted to do.

What do you consider your most significant climbing achievement to date?

Several stand out: The Gift (8c, 350m multi-pitch, first free ascent, Rätikon 2015), Seventh Direction (8c, multi-pitch ground-up FA, Drusenfluh east face 2018), Psychogramm (E9, extremely bold trad first ascent), Sangre de Toro (8b+, alpine, Rote Wand) and Missing Link (8c+/9a, Voralpsee, Switzerland).

Which route keeps calling you back?

A first ascent on the north side of the Rätikon that I want to finish, and the gear I have stored in Patagonia.

How would you describe your climbing style and your anti-style?

Vertical, slightly overhanging technical climbing on limestone with alpine runouts is my best fitting style. Anti-style: sit-start bouldering and maximal moves on pockets in overhanging terrain.

Who are your role models, both within and outside the climbing community?

Beat Kammerlander, Viktor Frankl, my dad and local people from my climbing community.

Which crag or mountain is your favourite and which do you consider the most beautiful in the world?

The Rätikon and the Rote Wand at Lechquellen Gebirge are my favourites. The most beautiful could be the mountains of Patagonia.

What is one essential item you always carry in your crag bag that is not climbing gear?

Ginger.

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